Thursday, June 24, 2010

Road Trip: The Czech Countryside

People are unnecessarily apprehensive about driving around countries in central europe. I assure you this is as far from the truth as you could guess. I was reading reviews on trip advisor about renting cars in the Czech countryside and there were several posts that made us a little hesitant, offset by those that said it was perfectly fine. I am confidently say that driving in the Czech Republic is as easy as driving in any country we've rented a car in (and much easier than the left-handed driving countries).

We set out after our excellent time in Prague, picking up our car from the airport. I initially wanted to rent a manual and Dr. Bauer kindly gave me a quick lesson when I was home. Alas, I need a little more than 20 minutes practice to be comfortable, so it was the automatic, costing nearly twice as much. Maybe next time I am hope I'll commit better!

Onto the countryside.....our first stop was Telc, a Unesco heritage site about 75 minutes Southeast of Prague. Thankfully the torrid rain subsided for the visit, as it was severely lashing on the way out. The town is not worth a visit on its own, but a great stop en route to the destination below. The town is a narrow strip of Bavarian-style houses surrounded by water on 2.5 sides. It is a spectacle from the old tower that is an experience in its own in terms of getting up!
It is essential to cross the bridge to check out the large Carp occasionally peeking out of the water (and a cool view). 
Following Telc, we stumbled upon Jindrichuv Hradec. Its castle, the third largest in the Czech Republic, is another Unesco site and equally as impressive as Telc. The main square is very quaint and the is a nice church with, you guessed it, a tower to climb (which is the third of the trip). The church is right on the 15 degree meridian line, which doesn't get quite the numbers as the Greenwich observatory in London. Again, this town is a great stop over for lunch or just to stretch your legs and visit the impressive castle. 


We stopped for some statue pictures on the way to the castle. I was the least aerobic of the family members!
Following our photo session, it was on to our main objective of the trip around South-western Czech Republic...Cesky Krumlov. Its the mother lode of villages, voted one of the best destinations by National Geographic Traveler a few years back and another amazingly well-preserved Unesco village. The only drawback I would say is that the locals were only found working in the shops, restaurants and bars, and weren't enjoying the beautiful city.  It doesn't however, take away from the amazing-ness of it all, including the main entrance to the city. A castle on top of a triple-arched retainer...only in Cesky Krumlov.
After a dinner of traditional Czech cuisine, senior portraits, and meandering around the town we made it up to the castle, which is open after hours on the walking path under the castle itself (on top of the three tired archway). What a beautiful sight the town was around sunset...pinch me....

We walked around the walled town and arrived at this view upon re-entrance of the town after a nice walk. 

The town, ideally protected among a winding river and steep hillsides, first became a settlement in the 12th century as an important Bohemian trade route. The castle was first built in 1302 and passed through various dynasties until 1745, where it was the House of Schwarzenburg until world war II. The castle has several different sections that show clearly how it was evolved over the past. 
After walking around some more, we had a beer at one of the many riverside restaurants which provides great night views of the city. We ended the night with a bottle of wine and some cards on the hotel terrace, overlooking the castle. Phew, quite a jam-packed and eventful day!
The next morning before setting off we made it up yet another tower (that's four for the trip) to get sweeping views of the town. 
Before getting back into the rental car and meandering our way back to Prague airport, we indulged on a final Trdlnik (sp), a Czech tradition that is thin dough cooked over an open fire and topped with cinnamon. Jenna particularly liked them!! 
And to sum it up, if you are considering a trip to the Czech countryside, DO IT!!!!!!

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Prague summer style

Erin and I put a lot of thought into where we should take Jenna on her first continental Europe experience (and Jamie on her single Euro trip before going 3rd world on us).  Do we go to Paris, Rome, Barcelona, maybe Dublin (kidding:-)?  We wanted to blend history with unique architecture and good nightlife - and go somewhere Erin and I haven't spent much time. Prague was on the shortlist and an easy decision. After paying a whopping 390 sterling to change the flights we incorrectly booked, we made it into town around 11pm on Friday night, just in time for an Absinthe shot or two! We wandered around the old town square and down along the river, getting some sweet shots of the castle across the river, stopping at a night club next to the Charles bridge. 

We tried to go to the touristy bar from the 1500's, U Fleku (sp), but apparently tourists don't stay out past 11pm. After getting a cinnamon treat called a Trdelnik (which was consumed almost as much as local beer during the long weekend), we made it to bed. 
The next morning we got up and at em reasonably early, probably not as early as these guys though; and made our way towards Mala Strana and Prague Castle via the Charles Bridge
First constructed in 1357, it is one of the oldest surviving bridges in the world. It has suffered its share of destruction throughout the years, but has always been one of the most awe-inspiring bridges in the world. Believe me, one NEVER runs out of things to take snap shots of in and around the bridge. 
After wandering around the area, checking out the castle grounds and visiting the Loreta, we went to U Cerneho Vola, which is a really old pub that oozes character. I couldn't find out how old it is because probably nobody knows; I think it came right after Adam and before Eve, or maybe after tadpoles and before frogs. Either way, it has 4 really old long tables that we shared with some friends from Denmark. It has light beer, dark beer, or water (Pilsner Urquell). To eat there is sausage, fried cheese or potatoes...perfect!
After lunch we meandered around for another hour or so, checking out the park and lake and river and and jewish quarter and cool stuff like that. It was a really beautiful day and fun to just wander around!
Needing to re-fuel (beer), we went to a bar close to the old town square, the only one with a rooftop bar/patio and had a couple brewskies while the sun was setting. Staropramen is my favorite of the mainsteam lagers, but there are many local more local beers to be had in Prague. The view from the bar was amazing. 

After drinks and the girls first ever escargot experience, we made our way up to the old town hall which has commanding 360 views of the city. It is the one of the best towers to venture up...period. Actually, you be the judge. 


Following the tower we had dinner at a local brewpub that only makes enough beer for the busy restaurant called Pivovarsky Dum. They have interesting beers on the menu that change as often as the tides. I sampled sour cherry, a bok beer, a wheat beer, and a beer brewed with nettles (thankfully they take the nettles out before you drink:-). Jenna and Jamie enjoyed the banana beer.

The next morning Jamie and I were up for Charles Bridge pics at 7:15am. I got some great ones, but won't put too many on as I have documented before on the blog!
It was actually better than the first time as during some of our time making our way down and back, we were the only ones on the bridge, a far cry from what it becomes only hours later! Note to tourists, do the charles bridge before 9am! 

After the bridge we had some hotel breakfast and went to the rent-a-car office in the airport to get our car to explore the countryside!!!

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Family Style (2010)

We've been without visitors for awhile (hint, hint). So to our great fortune, we kicked off the summer with not one, but two siblings arriving in London.  Jamie arrived first for a three week stop-over before departing for a four month project/adventure in India and Nepal.  We're slightly perturbed that she is putting our travels to shame.  Seriously, her pictures and experiences are wide-opening and incredible and I can't wait to follow her up the Himalayas.
Jenna, our new roommate, arrived two hours later.  London is her first foray into European waters.  She'll be interning for the summer as well as providing entertainment on our upcoming trips.  We're happy to have her and she's also happy to have us ie. no hostels.
Day 1: Picnic overlooking Big Ben and Parliament. 
Double-decker bus, which decided to stop and not take us to our final destination.
A quick pint in the oldest pub in London.
Completed a mock commute to Jenna's new office.

Tuesday, June 08, 2010

New Glarus and Verona, Wisconsin

After a week of work in our Minneapolis office, two more Twins games that didn't rain out, including the first win I got to see in the new ballpark and some more family visits; the following weekend was here.  After hearing that Pedro's wedding was going to be near Madison, Bauer and I decided it would be the perfect opportunity to venture to New Glarus Brewing Company, a highly coveted beer that has such high demand that it isn't sold outside of Wisconsin. We left at 7am in order to make it at a reasonable time and then have time to change for the wedding. New Glarus recently relocated to a brand spankin new brewery just down the road from the old town that was settled by the Swiss and looks more like an alpine village than a Southern Wisconsin town. 

When you get into the brewery, you pay for the tour and get a (US) pint glass to go fill up in the tasting room down the hall. They had 7 different beers on tap, with a couple that were pretty rare (Golden Ale brewed in Trappist style and a Cherry beer that was like a Lambic). Then you can take the self-guided tour which includes some bad-ass wort tanks!
After the self-guided tour, Bauer and I decided to do the tasting as well, as it is like kids in a candy shop when Bauer and I are in a brewery. 
After the glorious tasting we headed downstairs to the bottleshop and picked up some for after the wedding. It is definitely worth taking a weekend from Minneapolis (or Chicago) to visit the brewery. 
Of course the tour isn't complete without heading into town to the Glarner-Stube (I think) to get some Swiss-themed food (and another New Glarus - the only beer served on tap). As you can see, it was full of character. 
We departed from the restaurant in haste to make it to the wedding in Verona for Pete and Jenny's wedding. The lovely couple had a great day as the weather was beautiful and all their friends and family were there to share the day!  The restaurant was at a really beautiful golf course that served great food and wine all night. The dance was wonderful and everyone had a great time.

Pete was so high in demand that I barely had a chance to sneak a photo with him. Congratulations Pedro and Jenny, thanks for the great night!!!

Sunday, June 06, 2010

Graduation and Mothers Day

To come over 4,000 miles (4,018 to be exact) for a long weekend to see your sister's graduation is pretty nice, but it was made much more palatable with the "free" flight using miles, seeing our nephew and the rest of our family. Lins and Erin left for St. Ben's after welcoming Meaghan and Ryan's new litle girl into the world to celebrate Jamie's graduation. I think we all agreed it was pretty special to have all four sisters under the same stars in Minnesota, with nobody being more happy than Darrell and Monique. 
Jamie was blessed with pretty good weather for the always unpredictable early May and friends and family were on hand to give a hand to the graduate. One more to go!!!

And into the old drinking holes.  Its great to see Darrell protecting the Leinies from the ever-present stench of the LaPlayette, where Erin and I spent many late nights and early mornings during our glory days. This was the first time back there for both of us together) since our graduation in May '03....where does the time go. We all went to dinner at Anton's before the scene below unfolded with Erin's cousins, getting news that Kamie and John were about to have her new little guy during dinner. Its definitely baby mania these days!
Following the festivities, we got a ride back home and saw Theo once more at the Red Stag supper club for Mother's Day brunch. The food was okay, but not worth blogging about:-) Afterwards we went for a walk along the river by Nicollet island, which is actually a very removed and scenic walk from downtown. It was a great weekend and unfortunately for Erin it was back to the big smoke, and I was going to be apart from my lovely wife for two whole weeks, which is about 13 days more than we can tolerate!