Florence, Italy

We came to Florence expecting to canvas the city, but didn't realize we'd do it in our rental car over the course of 90 minutes...trying to find the drop off Avis for the rental car. If anybody is renting a car in Florence, let me know before hand and I can help guide you. It was miserable...we even found ourselves driving directly past the duomo down streets that aren't made for cars! Needless to say I was pretty stressed out driving through the city, nearly getting crumbled on more than one occasion. I am glad there was a Birra Moretti waiting at il Pizzaiuolo for us when we finally got the car back!
It was worth the stress though because Florence is a beautiful city that one could walk the streets of for years without getting bored or sick of the sights and sounds.

The first day we spend a lot of walking around (took countless photos of Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge that has shops and houses on it from the middle ages), and caught sunset at Piazza Michelangelo, which has the best views of the city, especially around sunset. After that we had a nice dinner (forget the place but we don't recommend it) and hit the hay.The following morning, Erin's sister Jamie came from Rome after the conclusion of her May term trip to Egypt, Israel, and Italy. We picked her up, went back to il Pizzaiuolo (we NEVER go to the same place twice in a foreign city, but this place is the exception, some of the most amazing pizza we have ever had. Following lunch we headed to Santa Croce, where Michelangelo, Galileo and Dante have tombs, then headed for the Duomo and climbed the 420-odd stairs to the top to get marvelous views of the city. This is the dome of the Duomo.

After that, we made our way home for dinner at Il Latini, which is one of the more touristy restaurants in Florence (however it is touristy because it is sooo good...there are as many locals as tourists for the record). There is no menu and the food is family style. The house wine is terrific, the grappa good, and they give you a nice desert appertif (a little like Prosecco). The following morning, our last in Italy, we made it to the Uffizi museum. It was nice, but didn't exceed expectations. I would give the nod to the Louvre, Vatican museums, Musee D'Orsay, the Western Galley of Art at the Smithsonians, and even the Medici chapels and Santa Croce in Florence itself. It was great to see the renaissance in action with famous artists, but the pieces weren't overly impressive from an art point of view. Nice, but we expected more. After Erin and I went to the Medici chapels and saw the most complete set of Michelangelo statues that exist. He was an amazing artist. It was an incredible conclusion to an already amazing trip. We loved every minute of our Italian adventure, as well as our family and friends along for the ride!

The Good Life in the Tuscan Hill Towns

Casa Porciatti - Radda in Chianti

Now that we've shown the sightseeing side of Tuscany, let us share our gastronomic experiences with you. This is the true way to learn about and experience Tuscany...through its food and wine. When we get back to the Minny, we'll share more stories and pics, but this will give you a tasting (or Sangiovese of course) of our time in Chianti, Montalcino, and Montepulciano, and the food and wine that was enjoyed with it. The morning after Siena really started the wine portion of the tour (note we have already tried probably 15 wines at this point, and craved more). We made it to Montalcino at around 9am on Italy's independence day.

Montalcino

A lot of things were closed, but we had faith the wine industry wouldn't close on a day in early June! Montalcino is an amaing hill top town that boasts more wine stores than pubs in Dingle (see post from January titled Wandering the West). We had some really really good wines while wandering the medieval streets, and even wandered into a couple churches. After picking up a bottle for the evening, we headed to Pienza, about half way between M&M, giving a chesse rather than wine heaven.

Despite the downpour in Pienza, we managed a terrace lunch and 3 cheese tastings. Pienza is famous for its Pecorino cheese, where it all began. We got a block of Pecorino cheese infused with Truffels, it was amazing. Its cool because the more aged the Pecorino is, the harder it is. So never say no, there is a pecorino out there for every tongue.
Pienza was a great little town, the main street was great and the path along the walled town provided for breathtaking views. Pienza is also home to Pope Pius, from who the town bears its name. Off to Montepulciano, our favorite town of the glutenous tour of Southern Tuscany. Pienza

Its important to note that when looking for the postcard pics of the Cyprus trees, wheat fields, and rolling hills scattered with vineyards, this area is the place. The Chianti region is amazing, but with more trees, more hills, and probably more vineyards and olive groves. But don't mistake me, vineyards and olive groves are EVERYWHERE!

Castello di Verrazzano Vineyards and Olive Groves

Montepulciano was amazing, despite the rain. We started off the equally as impressive walled hill town by visiting Adamo at Contucci vineyards, the only vineyard that ages its wines inside of the walled town (literally inside, with cellars dug into the rock in the hill town. After the self guided tour, the friendly Adamo lets the wine flow. If you follow Ricardo Stevacchio (Rick Steves...see last post for explanation), he loves this guy, and for good reason!! He does love the ladies, and will expect you to know him because he is famous in America!! He even signed my page in Rick Steves with his photo in it. He and his winery associate were both great and very very fun. 10 tastings later, we all had to go into the rain to sober up!

Poliziano is another winery serving samples there. Absolutely amazing wines. We bought a Vino Noble di Montepulcino (the top wine from the region) to share with dinner! Following that we went to another place that is seriously like the funny farm, serving everything from wines, to chesses, to cured meat, basalmic and other sauces. The place was sooo good, we got a block of soft Pecorino that was the best cheese I have ever had.

The following day we took Mr. Betch's advice and booked a tour at Castello di Verrazzano. http://www.verrazzano.com/ I suggest anybody touring tuscany to visit this place. It is even accessable for a day trip from Florence. The tour guide, Gino, was flawless; talking more about the love and spirit of the wine than the composition, adding about the amazing history of the vineyard. After touring the grounds and cellars, we sat down to a 5 course meal that served up 4 different reds, a vin santo dessert wine, and grappa. We had to walk it off for a bit before heading back home. I wanted to take this home, but it slightly surpassed the liquid restrictions for carry-ons.

In Radda in Chianti, we stopped in an amazing butcher shop for about 50 slices of perfect Italian meats for about €7, then at the Coop for everything else. It was probably the second best meal on the trip (after the Abbey restaurant) and we didn't even need to turn the stove on!! We also stopped at the Badia di Coltibuono wine shop and made some irresistable purchases! The next morning it was onto Florence, but these were four of the best days of a blessed life

Siena, Italy

At first glimpse there isn't much to Siena, but that was mostly because its a bigger city that you really have to penetrate to get to the good stuff. After having already been to San Gimignano, Volterra, and Monteriggioni (with a bathroom stop in Poggibonsi), it was pretty ambitious to have Siena on our list. Arriving at about 4:30pm is something we are still proud of, because that is some serious touring for one day. Rick Steves in hand, we knew we didn't have much time left to visit the famous Duomo there. We also had to get some DOCG for the evening. Alas, we made it to the Duomo. Aside of St. Peter's, it is the most remarkable cathedral I have seen.

Its a beautiful facade which gets more impressive inside, containing basically the hall of fame of Renaissance artists including Michelangelo, Donatello, Pisano, Bernini, Pinturicchio, and St. James of Ashburn, who carved the pillars after his favorite golf shirt. Note that if choosing between Florence and Siena by only its Duomo, go with Siena, the church is unbelievable (Florence as a whole is more impressive, stay tuned). Make sure to get Rick Steves Florence and Tuscany too, as the self guided tour is worth the price of the book. Thanks Rick (remember in Italy to refer to him as Ricardo Stevacchio...and in Southern Cali, Tricky Dick)!!!
The pic above has a cool feature of church artistry during the renaissance, the dome looks like it has carved statues at the base of the dome, and depth in the dome itself, but your eyes deceive you, its actually just a 2D painting!

After the church, we wandered through the historic streets to Del Campo, perhaps the one of the most famous squares in the world. After walking around the square, we grabbed a chair and a carafe of house red and white. While having our drink, we heard music slowly getting louder. All the sudden a gang of locals (maybe 150) came into the square all dressed up and playing festive music. We made the assumption it was in preparation for the Palio, which occurs July 2. It was cool because there were men from 5 to 75 years old in the parade. Makes you really appreciate culture and tradition, which is so strong in Siena and across Tuscany.

After the parade, our appetite brought us to a little restaurant behind Piazza Del Campo that had only 8-10 tables and was run by an older couple. There was no menu, the man rattles off some Italian, and you raise your hand when you think there is something that sounds good. I ended up with an amazing house pasta (all the pasta was freshly made and sooo delicious) and osso bucco (sp). I choose that because I noticed the name, and it didn't disappoint, slid off the bone, right into my belly! The coolest part was when someone ordered a meat appetiser, the owner whipped out a huge hunk of meat (flinstones style) and cut off the customer's order. All this food talk is making me thirsty, just what the following day in Montalcino and Montepulciano called for!

Rolling through the Tuscan Hill Towns

La Dolce Vita....

Crusing through Ferrara on route to Radda in Chianti, I couldn't help but be ashamed we were sporting the smallest Fiat in the fleet that has probably 5% of the horsepower of its Italian counterpart, named after the city we were passing through. Not to worry though, Ted (as we called him, Theodore if he acted up) would get us from A to B, backwards during this amazing adventure through Toscana. On the way we stopped in a little suburb of Bologna, and found what we would run into multiple times during our journey, the Coop. Wow I wish every coop had what was offered at this place; meats, cheeses and breads that no grocery in Dublin or Minny would even consider importing as it is too good! We brought our lunch to a park overlooking a valley with amazing views. But alas onto Tuscany, we'll pass on the Emilia-Romagna region this trip.

An hour and change later, we arrived at Badia a Coltibuono, the pics on the web and below don't do it justice....this place was perched on a high hill overlooking the tuscan valley, literally a gateway to cullinary and wine heaven! The Abbey, built in the 1000's, was complete with italian gardens, fountains, a beautiful little chapel, an amazing granery, which was our apartment for 4 nights (and probably 14 times the size of our apartment):

That night we had dinner at the restaurant, one of the best in Tuscany according to food and wine and other publications (Badia houses the most prominent cooking school in the region as well). James and I did the 5 course tasting menu which had a glass of wine with each course. Between the 4 of us we had 7 different animals; as Ricardo, the male crush of the girls during the trip would say, we are true Tuscans (eating all that meat).

The next morning we were out the door and in the roller coaster hill roads to San Gimignano, an amazing town that literally stalled its development in the middle-ages. It is known as the Manhatten of Italy as there are 14 towers that define the city's skyline. The towers symbolized wealth in those days, as well as protected the families from invaders (damn Florentines). We went to the top of the highest tower and had some of the most amazing views of our lives.

We next went to Volterra, which is a more out of the way and more historical town. It was the heart of the Etruscan kingsom around 400 BC. The town was perched really high up and it took some serious leg work to ascend. The views were also incredible. One of the cool attractions was the gate from 400BC, which was barely spared by the Nazi's trying to halt the allied advance only because the townspeople dug up the stones from the cobblestone streets and plugged the wall to show the Nazi's they need not blow up the gate. Another highlight is the roman theatre...450 years older than the gate, but still an impressive 1950 years old....doodeedoo.

After Volterra we drove through amazing valley's, through fields, vineyards, olive groves, small villages, the one below called Monteriggioni, which is a perfectly preserved fortified village.

And then onto Siena.....

James and Marissa Visit - Venice, Italy

Finally another chapter of the blog, sorry that it took us so long to update recently! All is well in Dublin, Erin is home visiting her fam for a couple weeks while I endure the summer that we are still waiting for in Dublin. It isn't too cold and has been dry since April, but the last few days have been a little wet, so bring a sweater before visiting; or just drink lots of wine like our friend Adamo, great man, famous in America:

We had the fortune to be part of Marissa and James' first European adventure earlier in June. We consider it an honour that they decided to do this trip despite having a new house and having never traveled out of North America. Nonetheless, the Italian adventure that has been months in planning can now begin!! James and Marissa arrived on a Thursday, when which we spend a full day walking around Dublin and went to the Guinness Storehouse (I think Erin has a permanent stool in the sky bar).

We departed to Venice on Friday morning, spending 24 hours walking around, trying the local cuisine, and enjoying the €4/liter house wine at all the restaurants. We took the Grand Canal to the San Silvester stop on which our b&b host met us at the stop and led us as we weaved in and out of skinny canals and side streets to a quiet little spot called Residenza degli Angeli, http://www.angelibb.com/ which was perfect for us and reasonable for Venice standards in terms of cost (€180 for 4) and location (5 minutes from Rialto bridge). Once we dropped our stuff off we just wandered the streets of Venice, getting lost, getting some amazing pics, and some amazing gilato. We had lunch at a restaurant called Banco Giro, which was right on the grand canal, but slightly over priced for the quality of food served (€14-€20 for a main). Regardless, it was amazing to soak in the vibe of Venice with a couple jugs of house white.

We continued to wander around the city, going to St. Marco plaza and walking all along the surrounding area. There is no other place like Venice, which makes the scenery so spectacular and makes us fortunate to have the opportunity to visit the historical town.

Grand Canal from Rialto bridge...

Rialto bridge....

We later went and had an appertif before our gondola ride at Cantina do Mori, a very old wine bar that serves countless wine by the glass and tapa-esque finger bites. They put the wine by the glass on a chalkboard everyday and have great cheese. Kevin Garnett would hit his head on all the pots on the ceiling though as they didn't have him in mind when it opened in the 1800s. I definitely recommend it as it has great ambiance.

After our wine stop we flagged Comedian Gallagher (hopefully the pic below is expandable), who coincedently was giving Gondola rides that night! Although the price is steep and the ride isn't long enough, it was a great experience that I highly recommend while visiting. We wandered through narrow canals where you could only hear the voice of a few small kids kicking a soccer ball in an otherwise empty square or the perfect movements of the Ore of our Gondoliere.

After our Gondola ride, we had an amazing meal at a very local restaurant near the Rialto bridge (for a true Venitian experience, the restaurants off the grand canal are usually a little more local). I apologise but the name escapes me; what doesn't escape me is the amazingly tasty and cheap house red, James' black, black fish dinner, and the fact that a couple locals brought their dogs into the restaurant! See Erin's facebook for related photo!The next morning we walked around the Rialto fish and fruit and veg market, observing a truely alive fish market, fish, customers, and vendors alike.
The Venitian experience was a great one....off to our 10th Century Abby/Hotel/Restaurant/Vineyard near Radda in Chainti!